A visit to the local branch of the Rastriya Banijya Bank in Namche Bazaar was required to replenish my wallet before starting the final leg of my journey to Jiri. Since the end of the Trashi Labtse expedition I was trekking on an independent basis and all costs had to be paid as they arose.
From Namche a steep winding path descends through pine forests to the boulder strewn banks of the Dudh Khosi. A relatively level trail then follows alternate sides of the river to the village of Phakding and onwards to Lukla.
At Lukla a rest day was spent where the daredevil landings and take-offs from the sloping runway made spectacular watching. There had been a spell of cloudy weather and the airport was crowded with a backlog of trekkers desperate to depart. Much backsheesh was spent in trying to beat the queue. The previous year I had witnessed a fight for tickets amongst those awaiting flights.
For some time it had been obvious that Lalu was unhappy with Kammi; "Kammi ramro china (not good)"; "Kammi naramro (bad)". I discovered that every time Kammi paid for something on my behalf he was adding on a bit for himself. He was paid off and Ang Furi Sherpa, who stayed nearby and had been with me the previous year on the Everest trek, was recruited to join Lalu and Nima.
Next morning a steep descent on a muddy path was followed by a long ascent through woods to a ridge-top giving views of the Dudh Khosi in its deep, dark canyon far below. On route a steady stream of heavily laden porters were encountered transporting goods from the roadhead at Jiri to be sold or bartered in the market at Namche. As they careered downhill with their eyes lowered under their namros they were just as great a hazard on the narrow path as a herd of yaks.
From the col another steep descent brought us to a campsite for the night in Khari Khola. In the morning a pleasant walk through terraced fields bordered with banana palms led to a suspension bridge over the raging torrent of the Dudh Khosi.
Thereafter it was an arduous climb on a forested path via the large village of Maningdingma to the imposing gompa situated just below the summit of the Tragsindo pass. A fine sunrise presented a grand view of the snow-capped peaks ranged along the northern horizon.
On the far side of the pass a vantage point near a large chorten provided a sighting of Numbur (6959m); a prominent summit known to the local Sherpas as “the God of the Solu”.
The route descended a slippery, muddy path to the Ringmo Khola before a gradual ascent to Sallung. From there the path contoured round the hillside before dropping gently through pine woods to the large village of Junbesi with its entrance kani (archway), stupa and gompa all bedecked with prayer flags.
We were on the traditional expedition route to and from Everest heading due west across the grain of the country with two more high passes to be crossed. The first of these was the 11,600ft Lamjura La which was crossed in a driving blizzard. Scantily clad, bare-footed porters ploughed their way onwards through the ever-deepening snow.
Emerging from the desolate winter landscape the trail descended through forests then plunged to Kenja on the banks of the Likhu Khola. The slopes of Numbur glowed red in the setting sun.
A level pathway led along the well cultivated banks of the river before a steep climb brought us to Bhandar amidst broad pastures and sugar-cane fields. Two brightly painted stupas, with the all-seeing eyes of Buddha on each of their four sides, dominated the centre of the village.
Another slog to the summit of the Deurali Pass above Bhandar was rewarded with a bird’s-eye view of the rolling farmlands in the valley below. On the horizon Lamjura La was a slight dip in the snow-covered ridge. We descended through forests and terraced hillsides to reach Shivalaya on the banks of the Khimti Khola as darkness was falling.
A final half-day's walk brought us to the roadhead at Jiri. It had been 36 challenging and adventurous days since Lalu, Nima and I had set out from Charicot. I had enjoyed their cheerful company and had been impressed with their abilities and fortitude during the rigours of our long journey.
Site Index :: Adventure Travel :: Worldwide Mountaineering
