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The 220 mile trek around the great, semi-circular, multi-summitted Annapurna massif takes some 20 days to complete and is one of the classic journeys through the Nepal Himalaya.
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Manaslu Himal from Marsayangdi Valley |
Starting amid lush, sub-tropical rice-paddies the route follows the course of the Marsayangdi Khola ( river ) on primitive trails through small farming settlements and alpine forests of fir and pine to the arctic tundra of the yak pastures surrounding the medieval village of Manang nestling beneath the huge ice-fall tumbling from the giant, 7000 metre Gangapurna.
Beyond Manang the crux of the trek is the high-level crossing of the snow-covered Tharong La to reach an arid, wind-swept, mountain-desert region in the upper valley of the Kali Gandaki.
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Descent from Muktinath into the Kali Gandaki Valley |
From the sacred temple at Muktinath the return leg heads down-river on the trade route from Tibet via the caravanserai of Jomson and Tukuche through the deepest gorge in the world between the two 8000 metre peaks of Annapurna ( the world's 10th highest mountain ) and Dhaulagiri ( the world's 7th highest mountain ) to finish at Phewa Tal ( lake ) on the outskirts of Pokhara - the second city of Nepal.
It was my first visit to Nepal and at our trek starting point at the ancient royal city of Gorkha ( origin of the illustrious Gurkas ) I suffered from both anticipation and apprehension of what was to follow. The thought of being up to 10 days away from the nearest roadhead was daunting - in Scotland and the Alps the most had been only a couple of days. Another member of our group, Judith, a doctor from the USA, was also concerned and her backpack was extra heavy with medicines for all eventualities.
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Annapurna III from Manang Valley |
As we headed up the scenic valley on narrow trails beneath high rock walls and lofty snow peaks, criss-crossing from bank to bank on long, swaying, suspension bridges, the tension in our party increased as we progressed towards the huddle of flat-roofed houses of Manang. Rumours circulated of an early snowfall blocking the pass, disconsolate trekkers were met returning having been defeated by altitude sickness.
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Annapurna Himal from Manang Valley |
Our group leader, Phil did not help morale; " If you don't make it over the pass you won't see your kitbags ( carried by our porters ) again until Kathmandu!".
My daysac was therefore at its heaviest for the 1000metre climb over steep scree and snow slopes to the col at 5500 metres - some 2,000 feet higher than my previous best on 4800 metre Mont Blanc.
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Tharong La on descent from Muktinath |
However, by late evening, everyone, including Jack, a 60-years-old Irishman, had successfully struggled into the walled, fortress-like camping ground at Muktinath. We had enjoyed perfect conditions but others have not been so fortunate. On a previous occasion a party of four Sherpas had died in a vain attempt to secure help for their group snowbound on their attempt at crossing the pass. Poorly clad porters have also succumbed to exposure and hypothermia.
From the pagoda-style temple with its sacred water spouts and natural gas flame a dramatic view unfolds of the barren moonscape of the upper Kali Gandaki valley and the huge, white dome of Dhaulagiri looming far to the south.
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Dhaulagiri on ascent to Gorapani |
The numerous small, simple lodges in the Kali Gandaki valley originally served as overnight staging posts for porters and pony caravans carrying goods on the trade route to and from Tibet but are now the haven of 'tea-shop' trekkers and the route between Pokhara and Jomson, the most popular in Nepal, is now known as the 'coca-cola trail'.
A long uphill slog from the riverside at Tatopani to the col at Gorapani is alleviated by superb views of Dhaulagiri and its neighbouring Tukuche Peak rising sheer above the valley floor. Poon Hill, a short climb above Gorapani, provides an even better vantage point to witness the great peaks flame red in the rays of the rising or setting sun.
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Annapurna Himal and Macchapucchre from Phewa Tal Pokhara |
However the finest panorama is saved for the end of the trek in Pokhara. On a clear day, from the dam on Phewa Tal, the entire northern horizon is lined with mighty peaks ranging from Dhaulagiri in the west through Annapurna South Peak, Hiunchuli, Annapurna I, Macchapuchre ( the 'fish-tail' mountain ), Annapurna III, Annapurna II and Lamjung Himal terminating with Manaslu Himal in the east.
As customary our trekking crew and porters were well rewarded with generous backsheesh ( money presents ) for their stalwart efforts in ensuring the success of our trek while our sirdar Ang Jangbu drew lots to allocate the donations we also made of clothing and trekking gear. Most, but not all, of Judith's medicines were used to treat local villagers in evening surgeries at our camping places .
Himalaya Map - Nelles ( UK , USA )
Nepal Trail Map - Nelles ( UK , USA )
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